Whoever thought of combining beef steak and kidney into a pie hit on a winner. It was a favourite treat for Dr. Samuel Johnson who, in the 18th-century, wrote the first dictionary in the English language - and steak and kidney pie was certainly around long before then. Possibly the great meat pies of earlier days trickled down to poorer households who could not afford large quantities of meat and, as kidneys and most other types of offal were cheap, they were added to the meat to ‘pad out’ the pie a bit.
Having been brainwashed for decades that French cuisine was top of the pile, British chefs have rediscovered traditional British dishes, some of which go back hundreds of years. Nowadays in country pubs in England as well as posh restaurants in London you will find traditional menus on offer. Steak and Kidney pie is a great favourite. If you don’t want to use kidneys you can substitute mushrooms, but it won’t taste as good - and it’s not traditional !
Recipe for Steak and Kidney Pie from the Foodsmith Restaurant in Vancouver - sadly no longer there.
1, Put steak into a sturdy saucepan. Add cold water to cover meat. Use scissers to cut away as much kidney as possible from the membranes.
2. Chop kidney into small pieces and add to meat. Put lid on pan and cook over medium heat on top of stove for one hour. Lower heat to simmer, add salt, pepper and herbs and cook for about another hour, or until meat is tender.
3. The stew should be the consistancy of a thick gravy. If it’s a bit thin, thicken with a little cornstarch (or flour) mixed with cold water. Add to stew, stiring constantly.
4. This, so far, can all be done early in the day, then all you have to shortly before serving is assemble your pie and bake it - as follows:
5. Transfer your steak and kidney mixture into a deep baking dish. Try to find a dish where the meat will be as close to the top of the dish as possible. There’s a small ceramic object that is available in kitchen supply stores which can be placed in the middle of the meat. When you place the pastry on top of the steak and kidney, this holds up the pastry to it doesn’t sit right on the meat and become soggy. An upturned ceramic egg cup works just as well. Let the mixture cool a bit before adding the pastry top.
6. Roll out your pastry and place it on top of the steak and kidney. Use scissors to cut away the extra pastry and crimp the edges between your fingers and thumb to make a decorative edging. Brush with beaten egg and don’t forget to cut a small air vent in the pastry ‘lid’.
7. Bake at 400F ((200C) degrees for twenty minutes, then reduce heat to 300F (150C) and bake a further fifteen minutes until pastry is nicely browned.
More traditional British recipes: