Whilst France can’t claim to have given birth to garlic, which originally came from the steppes of central Asia, people say it found its true home there, where it has been at the heart of French cooking for thousands of years.
The small white cloves were first brought back to France by the Crusaders and in the Lomagne they found the ideal growing conditions. The climate is mild and the rich clay soil has a nutritious streak of limestone, essential for a good crop. One in three of every head of garlic eaten in France is from Lomagne. A total of 40,000tons a year! Over 13000 hectares are devoted to growing white garlic in this region and in the spring, when the bulbs begin to swell, the surprisingly soft scent carries on the breeze. The epicentre of this mass cultivation is the sleepy little village of St Clar de Lomagne, a pretty traditional Gascon bastide.
Lomagne Garlic Markets
Heading west from the red-brick metropolis of Toulouse it is barely half an hour before you are lost in the gently rolling hills and valleys of rural Gascony. But even without a map you will soon be able to route-out this renowned garlic producing region – just follow your nose!
Several of the pretty Lomagne villages hold weekly garlic markets but the largest is held at Beaumont de Lomagne under the vast wooden market halle shaded by roman tiles. Here you can buy garlic in all shapes and sizes - in platted bunches, loose heads and in bulk; but for the true connoisseur of all things garlic the best place to visit is St Clar - for a very French celebration of the vegetable that has put this quiet corner of France on the culinary map.
The Annual Festival of Garlic in St Clar de Lomagne
In Lomagne August equals garlic month. Each year the first Thursday of August heralds the Fete de l’ail (Garlic Festival) a simple culinary celebration of white garlic. The cooking of the famous Garlic Tourin begins early in the morning and the first tastings are ready from 11.00 am onwards. This is just the appetiser to a traditional – and not to be missed - Gascon lunch held under the Halles of the splendid covered market so typical of the region. (Reservations recommended 05 62 66 34 45) The afternoon’s activities include a guided tour of the village and an early evening ‘gourmande’s’ walk around the neighbouring garlic farms. (Again, for all reservations and further information contact the St Clar tourist office on 05 62 66 34 45.)
Later in August the Concors de L’ail takes place on the third Thursday of the month. For the local producers this is the most important event of the year. Here they compare garlic wares and submit their best cloves to the judges – it’s not unlike a Village produce show – except every category is garlic! For the public it’s also a great opportunity to sample all manner of tastings and choose from an incredible variety of garlic based products.
Whilst it is a serious business for those involved there is also a fun element to proceedings with a fringe Garlic Sculpture competition - Eiffel towers, chateaux and life size carriages abound.
If you can’t manage to visit the region in August then you still won’t miss out. There is of course the year round weekly garlic market at both Beaumont and St Clar and the charming Maison D’ail (House of Garlic) which offers a full range of garlic products and preserves. (Open 15th June to 15th October 14h00 – 19h00. Out of season phone 05 62 66 40 57 for a rendez-vous.)
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