The Trout - A Popular Oxford Pub
Review of A Busy Country Pub Serving Food in Wolvercote
Sep 1, 2008
The pub benefited from a recent refurbishment in 2006; the interior is now a successful blend of the traditional and the contemporary - light and comfortable but with a definite pub ‘feel’. Unlike so many British pubs these days, the owners have done an excellent job of modernizing the place, whilst retaining its sense of individuality.
A Great Location
First time visitors should be aware; the Trout, particularly in the summer, is almost always busy. This is due, presumably, to it’s superb location, sitting downstream from an old stone bridge under which the river rushes in foaming white eddies though a series of sluice gates. Ducks and peacocks amble along the wall separating the seating area from the river, and large shoals of fish (chub rather than eponymous trout) take hunks of bread tossed into the current just feet from the waters edge. An idyllic setting then and theoretically the perfect spot to laze away an August afternoon, idyllic were it not for the consistently and infuriatingly poor standards of service.
Service Issues
Waiting for a table in such a popular venue during the lunchtime rush is perhaps to be expected. Having to point out empty tables to the staff and then to seat oneself, rather less satisfactory. Sadly, attracting the attention of a member of staff was, at times, a virtual impossibility, none of whom seemed to have a clear idea of which tables they were supposed to be serving, seemingly more intent on talking amongst themselves.
This is a major gripe with The Trout. It seems to be staffed entirely by transient Australian or Czech back packers or less than fully engaged gap-year students. This in itself would present less of a problem were there some kind of obvious managerial presence, of which there patently is not.
The Menu
The menu itself is relatively inexpensive for a pub of this type, and offers simple if not traditional fare, that reflects the continentalization of British pub culture; pizza’s, salad nicoise and Thai style seafood linguine replace gammon and eggs, or ploughman’s’ lunches’. Whether or not this is a good thing is up for debate, although one cannot help imagine that a more contemporary English menu might be more appealing to the average Oxford tourist and more appropriate to what is, after all, an English pub.
The Food
The baked camembert starter served with an onion jam and ‘rustic’ bread at £8.50 was delicious - if arguably impossible to get wrong - and big enough for two to share.
As for main courses, the peri-peri chicken with lemon aioli and chips (£10.50) comes recommended. Whilst the peri-peri was perhaps little mild for some tastes, the aioli was excellent and complimented the chicken well. The chips were good, light and fluffy without being underdone. Also sampled from the ‘stove’ section of the menu, the Rack of St.Louis BBQ ribs were not bad - although the ribs themselves are not the juiciest you will ever encounter and the BBQ sauce a little out-of-the packet. They were served with chips and a generous mound of ‘slaw’.
To summarise, the Trout offers simple bordering on basic food at fair prices in what -if you can get a table - in an extremely convivial spot, far enough out of town to feel like you’re in the country, but close enough for a cheap cab ride should you prefer boozing to driving.
Sadly though, a competent kitchen is let down by regularly lamentable service. What a shame. A decent floor/restaurant manager could surely address many of these basic points of service issues.
Getting There
The Trout, 195 Godstow Road, Wolvercote, Oxford OX2 8PN | Tel: 01865 302071
From the Woodstock Road head out of town and take a left at the Wolvercote roundabout. Follow the road all the way. Alternatively, and weather permitting, the pub is reachable on foot (30 mins approx) or bicycle (15 mins approx) from Oxford’s Jericho area via the beautiful Port Meadow and along pleasant riverside footpaths.
