Start at the Puerta del Sol (M Sol), which is just a few streets away from the Plaza Mayor and is mile zero of the system of Spanish roads as well as the de facto center of Madrid.
The streets leading out from this center are teeming with great tapas spots, each with its own character and house specialties.
Tapas gathering typically begins at 8 p.m. The spots are congenial in the spirit of the best bars, but they’re also unusual in that the free flow of alcohol doesn’t seem to impede the all-ages—grandmothers with their grandchildren—conviviality of them.
Tapas Customs
The custom is to throw the toothpicks affixed to the various tapas directly onto the floor of the bar—the more toothpicks, the more popular the bar. This can be a little tricky to get used to, but after the first few glasses of wine, you’ll be amazed at how easily you take to it.
For starters, try Museo del Jamón (Plaza Mayor, 18, one of six in Madrid) for a tinto de verano, a refreshing mix of red wine and club soda mixed with lemon-lime soda, popular in the warm months, along with some Serrano ham; El Lacón (Manuel Fernández y González, 8)for aRibeiro del Duero red wine paired with broad beans, squid, and fried, salted peppers; and Sidreria El Ñeru (Calle Bordadores, 5) for Asturian cider with chorizo and blue cheese.
Churros y Chocolate
When you’re ready to wind up the tour, stop off for churros y chocolate at Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasdizo de San Ginés, 5), a Madrid institution—and by “institution” we mean, “operating since 1894.” It’s open all night and is a popular after-hours spot for that final velvety chocolate nightcap.
Should you choose to devote your entire four hours to tapas hopping, you can venture forth with a British guide from Adventurous Appetites (00-34-639-331-073; €85 all-inclusive, or you can pay as you go), who will entertain you with the history and customs of Madrid as he takes you around to various insider tapas locales.
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