On the shores of the Mediterranean, where the Pyrenees fall into the sea, lies Collioure a small Catalan fishing village that boasts a vibrant cuisine and a colourful landscape. Apart from fauvism one of its best known exports is the anchovy.
Since medieval times the village, once an important port on the Vermillion coast, has been fought over and swung between Spanish and French ownership. By the mid 1600’s the Treaty of the Pyrenees bought it under French control and at around the same time the village, already famous for its salted anchovies, was granted a special royal decree to continue producing them.
By the beginning of the 20thcentury hundreds were employed in around 40 anchovy salt houses and fresh catches were bought in every morning in the traditional brightly painted fishing boats called Catalans.
There are still a few restored Catalans in Collioure’s harbour today but the landing of the catch has moved down the coast to the deeper harbour of Port Vendres.
Nowadays only two salting houses still remain in Collioure, Ets Roques and Anchois Declaux but they continue to prepare the fragile fish in the time honoured fashion.
At Ets Roques (founded in 1870) you can visit the old salting house, an unprepossessing building on the Route d’argeles with a sun washed pink façade, to buy an assortment of anchovy products. And you can still watch as the fresh fish are sorted by hand and packed in salt barrels. After a month they are removed from the salt, beheaded and gutted (again by hand) and repacked in salt, this time in a cool warehouse for three to four months.
Anchovies – Little Fish With a Big Reputation
The anchovy is a curious little fish no more than 3 – 5 inches long it travels in large shoals in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. Like Matisse and the Fauves it is particularly attracted to the light in these parts and in particular to the Lampora, the moonlike lights that fisherman shine onto the surface to draw the fish up into the nets at night.
Most people know anchovies as those salty dark ribbons of bristly flesh that are unwanted on top of a pizza – a million miles away from the pale silvery white Roque fillets which come pre-marinated in creamy garlic oil, or spicy tomato sauce. Alternatively you can try the thick Anchoiade paste - a combination of mashed anchovy, olive oil, garlic and basil that is delicious spread on French toast.
The classic Catalan way to serve anchovies is as part of a tapas plate.
Anchovy Tapas
- If you can’t source the ready marinated anchovies then take a jar of anchovies rinse and soak for 15 minutes, at least three times, in water or milk to remove the majority of the salt.
- Then marinade in a garlic infused oil with a light cream until the fish are soft oily and melt in the mouth smooth
- Serve on a platter alongside Chorizo (spicy dried sausage), cubes of Tortilla (cold potato omelette)and mussels, freshly cooked in garlic broth.
Accompanied with crusty bread and a glass of Banyuls it would be easy to imagine yourself sitting outside a Collioure café on the Boulevard du Voramar looking out across the bay to the old lighthouse tower of the Notre Dame de Anges.
Lentil Anchovy Salad
Quick and easy for a perfect light lunch.
- 1 tin or 500g of pre-prepared brown lentils lightly pan warmed, add a handful of caramelised red pepper and onions.
- Allow to cool, then toss in a table spoon of mayonnaise and serve with a dish of marinated garlic cream anchovies.
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