Atmosphere in Spades
With its oak beams, stone walls, dim lighting and Corsican music wafting overhead you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve stumbled upon a tavern hidden away among the scrub in the mountains of the Ile de Beauté. That is, of course, until your eyes adjust to the candlelight and you note the decidedly urban Parisian crowd tucking into the hearty dishes in this cozy dining room.
In the middle of Le Marais, one of the city's most vibrant quarters bursting at the seems with all manner of watering holes restaraunts and nightlife, l'Alivi is an oasis of calm and quiet, something out of another time and place. Tucked in a pedestrian passage giving out onto rue Rivoli, it's hard to believe you're in the center of the busy 4th arrondissment.
Corsican Specialities to Take You Away
Like it's bygone setting, what's on the plate at l'Alivi is from a lost era. Chef Franck Guglielmi uses only top-notch ingredients, many imported directly from Corsica, like the generous offerings of cured meats, wild boar and hand-picked fruit. An entrée of terrine de sansonnet aux myrtes (a pâté of starling and myrtle) sounded too intriguing to pass up, and its lovely woody flavor and rustic texture did not disappoint.
The choice of mains is almost overwhelming but the civet de sanglier, wild boar stew served in a rich red wine sauce, stood out from the rest. The meat was of an otherworldly tenderness and the presentation was simple and without pretension. The wine list presents the occasion to sample some of Corsica’s best offerings. These wines are often overlooked for better known regions of France such as Bordeaux or Burgundy, but they deserve a second look for their warmth and simplicity, so right with sunny Mediterranean foods. The Domaine torraccia Oriu 2001 was a true delight.
Make the experience complete with a selection of the island’s tangy cheeses or one of the desserts made with brocciu, a creamy Corsican sheep’s milk cheese. If your head isn’t already swimming from all this goodness, step out onto the leafy sidewalk patio and sip a chestnut liqueur, a Corsican treat not to be missed, before tearing yourself away from this little piece of island paradise and heading back into the sights and sounds of the City of Light.
L’Alivi
- 27 rue du Roi de Sisile, 4th (01.48.87.90.20/www.restaurant-alivi.com). M° St. Paul. Open Mon-Fri noon-12.30pm, 7-11.30pm; Sat-Sun noon-11.30pm. Average €35. Prix fixe €22. Lunch special €13. Credit MC, V.
