Caleya Ibérica Restaurant London W1 UK Review
Best Spanish Food & Wine – Fine Dining by Top Michelin Starred Chef
Sep 5, 2009
London's new restaurant for Spanish fine dining Caleya Ibérica opened quietly in May 2009 following the success of its tapas restaurant Ibérica Food and Culture. Both restaurants share the same venue in Great Portland Street and are owned by ubiquitous dedicated food lover Marcos Fernández Pardo.
Tapas at Ibérica or Fine Dining at Caleya
Ibérica on the ground level is funky, fashionable and stylish. A great place for first dates, good mates and business colleagues to drop in for delicious tapas, meet for a drink, lunch or dinner. A cloud of chatter rises to the upstairs area where the taste travellers are feasting in Caleya fine dining restaurant. Don't expect a traditional Spanish atmosphere; the theatre is in the food not in the Flamenco!
Caleya's annointed Michelin starred Chef Nacho Manzano is not shy in offering dishes on the tasting menus that are both traditional and challenging giving adventurous diners truly exciting food for thought.
A delicious glass of Cava Castillo de Peralada Reserva, fine and fruity with a gentle bubble welcomes the arrival of the little amuse bouche (appetizer) a sweet and succulent pillow of lamb sirloin with a wild berry jam. The little miracle stimulates conversation from the very start; this is indeed an auspicious beginning for the culinary journey to follow.
Caleya's Fine Wine and Exciting Spanish Food
Dipping out of Caleya's tasting menu into the à la carte the slivers of sweet and delicate finely marbled Iberica Huelva ham with tomato bread are perfectly partnered by a fine wine: Juan Gil Silver Label 2005, a deep red grape from the Monastrel vine, black fruit, chocolate and coffee sweetness with plenty of acidity to balance the richness. This table of enthusiastic diners relax in their chairs, confident that they are in the safe hands of a master chef who allows the familiar tastes of traditional Spanish foods to underpin a sensational explosion of flavours.
A Spanish Restaurant for Gourmet Dining
Now comes the octopus in its own juice with porcinni mushrooms and its "consome" opening a lively debate. The porccini lover at the table is happy that the emphasis of the flavour inclines more to the vegetable than the octopus. Others differ agreeing that the textures are too similar; but of course it's all a question of taste and the preparation and presentation are impeccable. Like any other art form true culinary invention inspires lively and passionate conversation.
Like the arrival of the slow-cooked cod's stomach with pil-pil glaze and highlights. Hard to imagine but after a few mouthful of the delicate tubes of fish tripe cosseted by a peppercorn glaze this table are converted to its marine flavours.
The Black Leg Chicken rice with Piquilla Peppers and saffron Casa Marcial; a traditional Spanish country dish, for most would be faultless but none the less Chef Manzano is hooked on improving its authenticity by importing some well-hung aged Spanish cock from the Asturian mountains.The original recipe which uses the Pitu (cock) was recovered from his great grandmother and thus the eponymously named dish which in this case will be Pitu Caleya hails from his famous restaurant Casa Marcial in Asturias. The mouth-watering Roasted Lamb with glazed artichokes and a silky smooth olive oil mash is the perfect end to the mains.
A refreshing dessert of Granite of berries with lemon sorbet and meringue batons and the finale a heavenly whisk of Mousse of turron with a light chocolate sponge and mandarin sorbet makes a spectacular finish to a truly gastronomic evening.
Dinner for two with wine, water and service costs around £100.
Caleya Iberica 195 Great Portland Street W1W 5PS London UK. For restaurant bookings telephone reservations on + 44 (0) 2076368650.
For casual dining the Iberica Top Tapas Restaurant downstairs is one of the best in London.
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