A Gastronomic Weekend in Perigord SW France

Harvesting Mushrooms and Chestnuts in Villefranche du Perigord

Nov 13, 2009 Kerry Swash

Villefranche du Perigord, a small bastide town in SW France, surrounded by oak and chestnut forests offers the perfect opportunity to forage for natural treasures.

Whilst the town of Villefranche du Perigord itself is small and sleepy, it is renowned for its 13th century fortified architecture and covered market place. It is also the regional centre, earlier in the year, for foie gras, truffles and walnuts. But in autumn there’s no where better to spend a weekend in the woods than here, hunting for the world famous cêpes and gathering the rich abundance of wild sweet chestnuts that carpet the woodland floor.

The best way to start your visit is by swatting up at the Eco-musée : Maison du Châtaignier, Marrons et Champignons in Villefranche-du Périgord itself. (in season open daily except Sun and Mon. afternoons. All other days 9.30am -12.30pm and 3.00-6.30pm. 05 53 29 98 37. Admission charge) It is housed in the Tourist office building in the main square and has a room devoted to Sweet chestnut cultivation, history etc and a room devoted to the ‘science’ of mushroom hunting. Plus which the chance to buy lots of associated products. It also runs weekend nature rambles to teach you how to look for wild mushrooms and to help you learn more about the conditions and environment needed for them to grow.

According to local knowledge the best place to start looking is at the foot of the Chestnut trees on a wet morning after a warm spell. They grow quickly and are best eaten freshly harvested.

If on return from the forest your basket is empty – fear not – every Saturday morning (during the season) there is a special chestnut and cepes market under the covered halles in the centre of the town.

Whilst there don’t miss the Fête de la Châtaigne et Champignons (chestnuts and mushrooms) which takes place the 3rd Weekend in October. Over the two day period there’s a chance to sample local produce, compete in the mushroom hunt, enter a chestnut cake competition and take a turn in stirring the largest mushroom omelette in the world. Not content with one Guinness book of records entry the weekend also offers the opportunity, should you want it, to challenge the World Record of Chestnut spitting!

More information can be had from :

Office du Tourisme du pays du Chataignier

Rue Notre-Dame

24550 Villefranche du Périgord

Tel: 33-553-29-98-37

Fax: 33-553-30-40-12

email : villefranchepgd@perigord.tm.fr

Two regional recipes from Perigord:

Grandmothers Chestnut Cake / Gâteau aux Châtaignes façon Grand-mère

(Traditional recipe à Maison Lambart with permission)

Serves : 6

Prep Time : 15 mins

Refrigeration time : 12hours +

Ingredients :

1 kg sweet chestnuts
400 g dark chocolate
50 g sugar
70 g butter
50 g crème fraîche
½ small glass of chestnut liquer or rhum

Préparation

Cook the chestnuts in simmering water for 10minutes. Peel them from their outer skins with a sharp knife.
Over a low heat gently melt the chocolate and butter with the creme fraiche.
Drain the nuts and mash them roughly. Then add to the chocolate mixture and stir well.
Next incorporate the sugar and the liqueur. Mix well.
Place in a lined cake tin and leave in the fridge for 12-24 hours.

To Serve: Creme anglais (thin vanilla custard)

Hachis de Cepes aux Oeufs

Serves 4

Prep time : 10mins

Cook Time : 40 mins

Ingredients

5 cèpes – large mushrooms
Walnut oil 2 dessert spoons
Seasoning
Garlic clove
1 Shallot
Large handful of fresh parsely
A handful of lardons (2 sliced of streaky bacon diced)
4 Eggs

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 180degrees C

Wash the mushrooms thoroughly. Detach the stalks from the heads and peel.
If the stalks are in good firm condition chop finely along with the heads.
Fry the chopped mushrooms in 2 spoonfuls of very hot walnut oil.
Add the seasoning, garlic and shallots (finely chopped) along with the lardons.
Cook covered on a low heat for 1/2 hour
Put the mixture in an oven proof gratin dish and break the 4 eggs over the top.
Leave in the oven for 7/8 minutes.
Serve with the fresh parsley sprinkled over the top.

Serve immediately.

The copyright of the article A Gastronomic Weekend in Perigord SW France in Culinary Travel is owned by Kerry Swash. Permission to republish A Gastronomic Weekend in Perigord SW France in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.